A few months ago, I felt like I was at the top of my climbing game. I on-sighted my first 5.12 trad lead, and had steadily been ticking off long difficult climbs in Washington, Oregon, and Utah. Reaching this level of fitness took years of practice and required overcoming some long-standing mental barriers.

The first half of November is a golden period for the climbing season at Devil's Lake. Crowds have thinned dramatically, the low winter sun shines generously through the bare trees, the yellowjackets are sleeping again, and there is a wonderful, quiet stillness in the air.

Yesterday was a classic example of how October makes for PERFECT climbing conditions at Devils Lake. The weather forecast called for a high of 55, so I bundled up and prepared for a chilly day. But with sunny skies and no wind, it was downright balmy out there, and we were climbing in t-shirts most of the day.