Six Great Sport Climbing Areas in Wisconsin
Many climbers are excited to get out of the gym and start leading outdoors. Unfortunately, the vast majority of Wisconsin rock climbing consists of:
a) boulder problems, and
b) traditional/top-rope routes
But don't worry, sport climbers! You can find some great bolted routes if you know where to look.
For some, sport climbing serves as an accessible transition from gym to crag. For others, it’s a chance to hone in strength and athleticism. Even die hard Devil’s Lake climbers have been known to leave the Lake now and then to clip some bolts.
Most Wisconsin sport climbing is located in the western/central portion of the state. If you’re willing to drive further north to Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, you can find more sport routes. But that’s another post!
Here's the beta on finding Wisconsin's best sport climbing routes:
Petenwell Bluff
Necedah, WI | Sport, Trad | Map Link
Petenwell Bluff is a sandstone ridgeline in Necedah that offers some of the best sport climbing in Wisconsin. Just off Petenwell Lake and along the Wisconsin River, the colorful walls rise upwards of 100ft above the water. The unique setting always makes for a beautiful day outside.
Kyle Harding | Fire In The Sky (Necedah) | Photo: Alex Beld
Petenwell Bluff has grown increasingly popular over the years. Centrally located in the state, climbers from Wisconsin, Minnesota, Iowa, and Illinois frequent the crag. Not only does the quarter-mile cliff band offer over 30 sport routes, but you can enjoy a number of quality trad and mixed lines here also. Grades range from 5.6 - 5.13b, with opportunity for two pitch climbs and a contrived traverse of the entire ridgeline.
Jacob Bach attempts the classic, Whiskey A Go-Go (5.13a). | Photo: Eric Resch
Notable Sport Climbs
Air (5.6): Starting in a dihedral on the river side of the main spire, Air eventually turns to low angle climbing with excellent exposure. Some climbers choose to climb this as a mixed route, bringing a light trad rack for additional protection due to the runout nature. After nearly 100ft, the climber is rewarded with a comfortable belay ledge and one of the most memorable views in the state.
Whiskey A Go-Go (5.13a): Thought by many to be one of the best sport climbs in the country, Whiskey A Go-Go offers 50ft of thin, technical climbing along widely spaced cracks and edges with no rest. Originally led on gear and graded 5.12c, the first ascensionist (FA: Dave Groth) eventually retro bolted it as a sport climb. Today, it is THE hardline in Wisconsin, sought after by many.
Other Notes
Petenwell Bluff is an access-sensitive area. The Wisconsin Department Of Transportation (DOT) owns and manages the land, and facilitating recreation opportunities is low on their priority list. Although there are no regulations currently in place addressing climbing, the public does not have explicit permission to climb here. If you visit, please keep a low profile and be respectful of the land and other recreational user groups.
Grandad Bluff
La Crosse, WI | Sport, Bouldering | Map Link
Grandad Bluff is a well loved and often visited city park in La Crosse that overlooks the Mississippi River. You can park your car on the bluff top and walk a few minutes to gorgeous valley views, which many consider to be the most scenic in Wisconsin. For years, climbers were not welcome at Grandad Bluff, although development slowly continued. The park was officially opened for climbing in 2020 after changes to a city ordinance and the addition of biking/hiking trails along the bluff. Huge thanks to the climbers who doggedly pursued legal climbing access with the City of La Crosse!
The bluff itself hosts over 50 sport routes ranging from 5.6 - 5.13a. Although the rock can be a bit chossy, the routes are well trafficked and breaking a hold is becoming increasingly rare. Dave Groth, who put up a number of first ascents decades ago, still maintains much of the hardware.
Becky Schneider | Macroputz (Grandad Bluff) | Photo: Andrew Jablonski
Andrew Jablonski | Burned At The Stake (Grandad Bluff) | Photo: Tony Smith
Notable Sport Climbs
Patent Pending (5.10d): A bit of a cult classic, Patent Pending has seen numerous speed challenges, mid-winter ascents, and naked sends.
Hawaiian Bill (5.12-): The first, and often considered the best, route on Meader Wall, the line follows fun and powerful moves on small holds. Originally envisioned by a man known as “Hawaiian Bill,” the climb was eventually retro-bolted and sent in the mid-1990’s (FA: Dave Groth; 1995).
Governor Dodge State Park
Dodgeville, WI | Bouldering, Sport, Trad | Map Link
Governor Dodge State Park is known for its ample selection of bouldering problems and its short-but-reliable ice climbs. Qual Wall is a nice exception. Although a few trad climbs are listed online, Qual Wall is predominantly a sport climbing crag. With roughly a dozen sport climbs ranging from 5.8 - 5.13a, the small sandstone bluff offers a few high-quality lines.
Heather Frickelton staring down the crux of A Red Recollection (5.11a) | Photo: Skyler Frickelton
Notable Sport Climbs
A Red Recollection (5.11a): The first line bolted at Qual Wall (FA: Schlick, Dyer; 1966), A Red Recollection was named after its resemblance to the climbing in the Red River Gorge, KY. Stemming down low leads to the obvious crux, which requires overcoming a small bulge before continuing to the anchors.
Secret Agent Man (5.13a): Overshadowed only by Whiskey A Go-Go, Secret Agent Man offers excellent climbing at the 5.13a rating. Big moves on small edges lead to a short dihedral. After overcoming a small bulge, the climber follows the overhanging arete to the chains.
Other Notes
The roped climbing at Qual Wall is currently recognized by the Wisconsin Department Of Natural Resources (DNR), though they prohibit further bolting at this time.
Hillbilly Hollow
Coloma, WI | Sport, Trad, Bouldering | Map Link
Andrew Jablonski sending the rarely repeated (and recently re-bolted) Turkish Revenge (5.13a). | Photo: Matt Chen
Hillbilly Hollow is a small sandstone bluff hidden behind Rest Area 81 in Coloma. The crag offers 15 or so bolted routes, as well as a number of traditional climbs and boulder problems. Although the climbs are relatively short, the setting offers a quiet escape.
Notable Sport Climbs
Swiss Cheese (5.8): Great, sharp, unique, uncomfortable; no matter how one chooses to describe the patina holds of this route, they are certainly memorable. Despite the tricky overhanging start, this climb is one of the best at The Hollow.
PWB Arete (5.9): This delicate arete has become a crowd favorite over the years. Immediately across from Swiss Cheese, this climb is named after the initials “PWB” etched into the rock near the first bolt.
Other Notes
Hillbilly Hollow is an access-sensitive area. The Wisconsin Department Of Transportation (DOT) owns and manages this property. Although no regulations address climbing here, there have been numerous reports of climbers being addressed by rest area staff. We don’t explicitly have permission to climb here. If you visit, please keep a low profile and be respectful of the land and other recreational user groups.
Willow River State Park
Hudson, WI | Sport | Map Link
Willow River offers some of the steepest climbing in the state, with around 40 sport climbs in a sweeping amphitheater above a gorgeous river. This crag is an excellent choice for those interested in hard sport climbing, as most of the climbs are in the 5.11 - 5.13 range. Willow even hosts the hardest climb in the state, Cain (5.14c).
Van Nguyen high up on Sudden Daydreams (5.12a). | Photo: Tommy Shultz
Although Willow River is technically in Wisconsin, climbing at Willow River State Park is possible thanks to the efforts of dedicated Minnesota climbers in the mid-1990’s to mid-2000’s.
Notable Sport Climbs
Sudden Shock (5.11d): One of the few 5.11’s at Willow River, Sudden Shock is well trafficked, and for good reason. The route follows a 30-degree overhang on unique holds to the top.
Requiem (5.13c): Rarely repeated, Requiem offers exposed climbing almost directly above the falls in the river. A high upper crux makes for an exhilarating finish.
Other Notes
Willow River has limited climbing hours. Climbing is allowed on weekdays during regular park hours. However, from May 15th through September 15th, climbing is not allowed at all on Saturdays, nor on Fridays and Sundays after 12:00pm.
Due to its proximity to the scenic waterfall, Willow is one of the loudest crags in Wisconsin. Prepare alternative means of communication, in case you can’t hear your partner.
Fishin’ Crag (Castle Rock South)
Highland, WI | Sport, Trad | Map Link
Fishin’ Crag is a small area in Highland with roughly 20 sport climbs and a handful of trad climbs. Named after the small trout stream running next to it, Fishin’ Crag provides a quiet escape from some of the other more popular climbing areas in the state. Despite its size, a few of the lines make a visit more than worth it.
Notable Sport Climbs
Awesome Arete (5.11b): No surprise here, this line climbs straight up the awesome arete. Technical climbing leads to an upper crux in thin, vertical seams.
Kingdom Come (5.11d): Maybe the best climb of the grade in Wisconsin and a classic anywhere, Kingdom Come offers unique holds and fantastic movement throughout the climb.
Written and edited by Kyle Harding, Lauren Pulkstenis and Nick Wilkes. Photo credits noted on each image.
